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In this video we'll explore a little bit of landscape and cityscape photography. So I shot this in San Francisco. This is the Oakland bridge, the Oakland Bay Bridge. And how Let me tell you the hike to get down to this part was insane. It was really scary, very tiring. And when the sun had set and when I went back up, it was even more scary because it was superduper dark, and all I had was my cell phone for a light and I run out of batteries.

So about halfway up it died so I kind of had to run up a little bit of in a little bit of a panic. So anyway, so let's see our camera settings. So three seconds of 16 ISO 100. In this photo, let me open up the Exposure so you can see it. So I shot this in between some rocks. And I just basically wanted to use this rocks to compose the photo in a way where the viewer would get drawn into the city, kind of like peeking out a window, I remember just sitting there thinking since there wasn't a lot of clouds, I wanted to use this rocks as my main composition.

So this is kind of what's going to lead the viewer into the photo. And it's going to lead the eye into this rocks right here. And then it's going to follow the bridge all the way down into the skyline. So let me reset the exposure as you can see, I exposed for the for the lightest spot in the sky. And let's start editing it. So let me take off the the settings pressing The IQ for information.

And the first thing I want to do is obviously, straighten out my horizon. As we all know, my eyes are a little bit crooked when it comes to that. So right about there that looks about right. Then we'll close out and that looks pretty good. As you can see this, this buildings are kind of leaning to the right a little bit. So let me show you how we can fix that.

So here in lens corrections, we're going to remove chromatic aberration This is a good a good seemed to show you the chromatic aberration as well see this green line against his buildings. There's like a little green line. Well, if we remove chromatic aberrations, that goes away, so that's what that is. And now we're going to enable profile corrections. And then we'll just unstretched on work the photo. So once we do that, we're gonna Come to the transform tab.

And now we can use our vertical slider. And we will stand it up this way a little bit. And now we're going to come to the horizontal. And then we're going to go this way with it. And now we can come to the vertical. And do that a little more.

Let's see how the buildings look. Now. See they're a little bit straighter, and you can do that a little bit more. That looks better. And then now you don't want to overdo this either because it will start destroying your image. But you can do it enough to get to get a corrective.

So let me pull back from that. And let me pull back from that. So I think that looks really nice. We'll come back up here to our crop tool. Crop it accordingly. And let me just straighten it out right about there.

Because the image is going to change when you start doing all this other adjustments. And then I'll, I'll close it up a little bit right there. And right there. I think that looks, that looks good. Let me close the crop tool or press Done. And our skyline is now straight.

Maybe I can even do a little more like that. That looks really good. I'm happy with that. Now everything looks looks proportional and looks. Looks good. So first thing I would like to focus on is this sensor spots.

There's a lot Let me close the transform tab. Now there's a lot of sensor spots here. This was shot this a while back, let me show you the settings again. I shot this in 2014. So that's two years ago and obviously Back then my sensors weren't cleaned everyday like I clean them now. So we'll click, let me zoom in since there's a lot of them.

Let's zoom in parts. So I'll focus on this left left corner, I'll click on the sensor spot, spot heal Spot Removal Tool. I'll click on visualize spots, and here's our sensor spot. See how they look like donuts. That's what I'm always saying that they live sensor spots look like donuts. So if you see other kinds of spots, they're probably a cloud or a bird.

And you can also remove them if they bother you. But usually sensor dust spots or donuts, or this donuts or cells coming together. So I did this corner. Now I'm going to drag my image towards the middle. We'll go through the same thing and then visualize spots. And we'll just keep on cleaning it.

And then one here. And now there's also if you put this arrow and you can also drag the image up here, just hold down, hold down your mouse, and you can drag it. And that will go here, here, here, and so forth. Here's kind of a tricky one, just be very careful with the ones that are close to an edge. That way you don't destroy that edge. And you can even grab a little bit of the edge and and copy it from somewhere else.

Now let's bring it down since that's part of our sky. And we have a spot here. I don't know if that's a sensor or not. You can always unclick visualized spots, see what that is. So it's a cloud so it's not a big deal. Okay, and now We'll come down to this area.

And this is probably the best way to clean your, your sensor spots by zooming in and dragging the dragging these, the square around your image. That way you don't miss anything. So that looks good. Let me click out of that zoom out by just clicking on the mouse. And then me I put this away so you have so we can see the screen a little better. So we just did a few basic moves to get the image into something where we can actually start editing it.

So let's get to our actual editing now. Instead of just cleaning it up, and now we can start making some beautiful changes. Now if this colors are kind of monotone to you, you can always turn the image to black and white. that's entirely up to you. I think this image will actually look really nice and black and white. But let's start with color.

So first thing I want to do is I want to open up the shadows As you can see, you immediately open up this, this beautiful rocks. And I think that looks really awesome but I don't want them. I don't want to open them down much maybe like right about there. That looks nice. Now I want to bring up my contrast. And as you can see everything kind of becomes dramatic, a little bit, a little bit cooler, cooler, cooler looking.

Now bring up your color, or since there's not a lot of color in this photo, you can also bring down the saturation and bring down this vibrance slider and kind of make it like an eerie looking photo. that's entirely up to you. Totally would you think suits the image best. Most of them teach you another trick here. Let's see saturated. Let's make this a black and white.

Alright, so now we're gonna bring the highlights down. And we're basically looking at this hotspot right there. And now we want to bring the highlights down just a tad more. And that looks really good. Now, I'm still I still this is still hard for me to see. So we're going to highlight a little bit of this highlight the city and just make this image pop.

So first thing I want to do, I want to highlight this skyline. So I want to grab my radio filter. Let me close the basic panel so we don't get distracted. So when I grab the radio filter, I'll bring up the exposure I can always turn it down later, and I'm going to highlight the actual skyline. Maybe right about there. Now I'm going to turn down the exposure a little bit.

Let me clip before and after. Before After Before, after, as you can see just becomes a little more, you can see it a little better. Not the highlights, you can even bring this up or down. Maybe right about there, that looks pretty good. We'll close out of that. And let's see before and after.

So even in color, it looks good, but look at the difference. We have straight buildings. We opened up this rocks, and I think that looks really nice. Let's keep it black and white. So now we want this image to be super contrast II since it's black and white. We want to make a conscious T and dramatic.

So we'll turn down the contrast or bring it up a little bit. And now let's bring this temperature slider down. Let's see what that does. Or up so it just makes it brighter. Okay, so I just wanted to see what it does. A lot of this is it's experimenting remember a guy I think this looks really good though.

So now let's use our local adjustment brush. And with our exposure up attack, which is already there to reset them, click the effect key twice, or the exposure key twice. And now we'll just bring this up and let's draw around this rock. We're just gonna draw around this rocks. I just want to give it some highlights, see the spots that are already clear, like, cleared and the other ones are brighter, I should say. That's what we want to keep highlighting.

Just Gentle, gentle strokes. Let me show you the okay. So see, that's what we're doing. Just very, very gentle strokes. Take that old key off. Now, let me show you before and after.

Before After. Before, after, and he just creates a little bit more drama and a little bit more, more visual stimulation. And let me open up these down here, and maybe this little rocks down here. Now I also want to put some accents in this water, since it's already white. That's exactly what I want to do. And that looks really nice.

Let me show you before, after, before, after. So very subtle, but you can see a big, big difference. Let me show you the Y key before the before and after. So look at that. It's already a very interesting photo immediately becomes very, very inviting. Your eye kind of drops in here, in wanders around these rocks, it comes up to these rocks, and then down the bridge into the skyline.

So we're creating visual story with everything we have in the photograph. So we'll click Done. Press the Whitely key, click out of that. And maybe I want to lighten up this water a little bit. So use a Radial Filter. And I'm just going to draw an oval down here.

Now let me see what happens if I that's too much. So reset the exposure, click on it twice. And I just bring it up just a tad. And now you can flip this around to fit your image. Let me see the oval is probably best right here. And right about there.

Looks really really nice. Let's see before and after. There's before, after. I think it looks good. So we'll press Done. And I think that looks really awesome.

Now, let's come to the Split Toning panel, we'll come to the shadows first. And now let's pick a green. And we're gonna create this image. I want to make it give it like a green tone like, or a blue. Yeah, there we go blue or purple. So this Split Toning, you can really change the look of your image, the tone of your image, this is what I use this this particular panel for.

So the hue, the H is at 221. Remember that number because we're gonna match the highlights. And I like it kind of bluish, greenish. Kind of like Batman is like comic book ish. See, that looks really cool. I really, really like that.

Okay, so 231 And 31%. So let's close out of that now click on the highlights. So just type in 231. Click and then so this is doing the highlights, the other did the shadow This is doing the highlights, and that's 31% we said. So that would be an even even image. You don't have to you don't like it.

I think I like it better, a little toned down like that. Maybe 14%. Maybe like that. And you can even switch this around as well to the highlights, like a green or, or a different color. You can get really creative, it's your image. Always remember it's your image.

Get creative, it's your vision. Don't worry if people say Oh, it looks nothing like that. In real life, blah, blah, blah. You know, it doesn't matter is what you want it to look like and for this particular image, I think the composition is great and I think it will Straight to add a little bit of 10 to it. So I'm going to leave it right about there. And about 14% is good.

I don't even really need it. But I'll, I'll bring it maybe 13. That looks good. So as you can see, it's kind of like a Batman ish feel like the Gotham feel is just good. Just looks cool. So we'll leave it there.

Now let's come to the effects tab here. And I think we can do some vignette on this one. And we'll just bring that bring it to like, maybe a 16. It's subtle, but it's but it looks cool. Let me show you before and after up here before, after. Before After and it's entirely up to you.

Maybe alternate minus 11 minus 12, I think looks good. So that looks really good. Now I just thought of something else. See This rocks, I want to put throw some AdSense on there. So I am going to come here to my limit, click the effects off to my adjustment brushes, our local adjustment, and I'm going to bring up my exposure. Remember, we can always tone it down.

And I'm just gonna draw on this rocks, little bright spots. And though they are subtle, they'll make a big difference in the final image. I'm just highlighting kind of the tops of the rocks. Just want to be able to see a little give it a little more dimension. Okay, right about there. Maybe a little more down here.

Now click the Okey dokey. You can see what you're drawing Maybe right about there. Now click the OK gang get out of that. Now let's see before and after, before, after. I think that looks really cool. Now I did go over on the water here.

So all I have to do is click this erase word, and then I'm going to delete it here by the water, though it doesn't look weird. There's like a weird Halo view. Leave it same with here. All right. We'll close out of that. Zoom out of that.

And I think that looks a lot better than you. Now let me highlight it again. So click on that. And we can even tone it down a tad right about there. No click before and after. Before.

After before, after I think that looks awesome. So I think that looks really really cool. cool guys, I would consider this a completed image. I do see a sensor spot right here in between these cables, do you see that? This is going to be tricky to get rid of, but we can certainly get rid of it with a little bit of patience and a little bit of work. So we'll click on our Spot Removal Tool.

And now we are going to draw basically we want to catch this cables. Okay, because we're gonna, what we want to do is to get the Lightroom to clone this exact spot up here. So we're just basically stealing a spot without a sensor spot and cloning, cloning it to down here. If I had a match, I think I moved it. Yep, I moved it. Okay, so we'll go back takes a minute to read it.

There we go. it matched it perfect. See how those this lines match perfect. So we basically cloned these from up here, and I'm still only heal, you can use this on clone. This is one of the techniques you can use on clone. So click on clone.

But I think I'm gonna use the heal since it's working well and it's got a better fade. Now we'll close out and look, you can really tell at all soom out and you I wouldn't even know where it was. So, so if I can see it, a viewer certainly can't see it. But I think that looks really nice. This press before and after. There's before and there's after.

And I think all in all, it's a really, really cool photo. Not a lot of color there. So we turned it into a black and white. we'd give it a nice tent. That makes it look kind of government kind of comic book ish, but the photo is still real. It's still really, really awesome.

It was cool being there. I got a few other exposures that look really cool, but I'm really really happy with this before and after, again, very, very happy with this image. If you wanna sharpen it up just certainly can't, I just don't think it needs it. Everything is so sharp. See, when it loads, everything's really sharp, but we can finish it off with the sharpening with the sharpening here, which is bringing about 6070 and then we'll grab our masking option key down, and we'll slide it down. Remember White is sharp, Black is stays on touch, she will want to sharpen everything except the sky.

So this is pretty good right here. Let it go. And there you have it. Now you have an ultra, ultra sharp image before and after one last time and I think that's a completed image.

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